Lay out the panel first, register one cat silhouette across three spaced pickets, cut the negative space, then reassemble and hang the documented gate.
Built and documented by The Crafty Catsman · Updated July 22, 2026
Finished projectThe opening is the design—and the reason this is not a containment gate.
The short version
Build the panel twice: once loose, once fastened.
Lay out the pickets at their final spacing, transfer the cat image across the center three, cut those three pieces separately, then return every picket to the same order and spacing before fastening the rails. Size the complete panel and its hardware from the actual opening—not from my approximate 70-inch project width.
14
pickets in this panel
3
pickets form the cat face
≈ 70 in.
reported finished width
Decorative
not a certified barrier
Why the cat is there
A family boundary that kept the neighborhood route open.
When my daughter went from sitting still to moving everywhere, we wanted a small gate that visually defined our new backyard hangout. The same yard was already a regular crossing path for neighborhood cats, so I turned the center of the panel into an intentional passage.
That origin matters: the opening is not a decorative afterthought and it is not a safety feature. The gate helped organize this particular space while deliberately allowing cats through.
The project became part fence, part signpost: people use the gate; cats keep their route.
Installed contextA small gate with a deliberately open center.
Scene 03 · Reconcile the layout
Use my panel as evidence, not as your cut list.
This build used fourteen short pickets made from seven longer boards and ended up around 70 inches wide. Fourteen exact 4-inch faces plus thirteen exact 1-inch internal gaps would total 69 inches before any edge or hardware allowance. Real board widths and openings vary, so calculate from your material.
Picket count × actual width+Internal gap count × chosen gap=Panel width before installation clearance
For a row of n pickets, there are n − 1 internal gaps. Compare that panel width with the measured opening and the clearance required by your selected hinges, latch, swing, grade, and local conditions.
My loose layout. Measure yours before transferring the cat.
01
Measure the actual opening
Record the clear opening, hinge-side support, latch-side support, grade, obstructions, and the direction the gate can swing.
02
Measure the actual boards
Nominal lumber labels do not guarantee the exact face width. Measure several pickets from the material you will use.
03
Choose the gap deliberately
The gap is part of both the total width and the cat silhouette. Use the same spacer while laying out, transferring, and assembling.
04
Leave room for hardware
Hinge geometry, latch clearance, sag, swelling, and an out-of-square opening all affect the final panel width. Follow the hardware guidance for your installation.
Prepare · 01
Create one top profile, then repeat it.
I cut the six-foot boards in half for this short panel, established one pointed picket top, and used that first piece to mark the rest. That kept the rhythm consistent without pretending every board arrived identical.
Repeat one verified profile instead of freehanding every top.
Scene 05 · The central move
Align one cat across three spaced pickets.
Put the three center pickets at the same spacing the finished panel will use. Position the cat image across all three, then separate the paper at the gaps so each board keeps only its own section of the cut line.
01
Recreate final spacing. A different gap changes the silhouette.
02
Check the whole face. Confirm both ears, cheeks, and the lower curve before adhering anything.
03
Index the boards. Mark left, center, right, and orientation so the pieces cannot swap later.
Pattern boundary: the photograph shows how I registered the shape. It is not a downloadable, printable, scale-accurate, or guaranteed-fit template.
Photographed transfer evidenceThree boards. One continuous negative space.
Cut and reassemble
Keep the silhouette coherent through the build.
Once the transfer is complete, the work becomes a careful sequence of cutting, indexing, spacing, and adapting the structure to the actual panel.
Cut02
Cut · 02
Remove the silhouette without losing the registration.
With the three pickets separated again, I cut each marked portion of the cat outline. Keep the pieces identified and in order so the ears, cheeks, and lower curve return to one continuous negative space at final spacing.
Assemble03
Assemble · 03
Rebuild the spacing before fastening the rails.
I laid the pickets face down, returned the cat pieces to their planned order, and used a consistent spacer across the panel. The rails then locked that field together while the silhouette stayed aligned.
Hang, latch, coat, and check
Installation belongs to the opening in front of you.
The original photographs show how this gate was hung and painted. Final support, hardware, clearance, and coating decisions still depend on the load, site, material, weather, products, and local requirements.
Installation checkProp, level, swing, then fasten.
Support the load
Confirm that the hinge-side post or structure is sound, appropriately anchored, and capable of carrying this specific panel through repeated swings and weather.
Set the swing
Prop the panel at its intended height, check level and clearance through the full arc, and account for grade, swelling, and nearby surfaces.
Match the hardware
Use exterior-rated hinges, fasteners, and a latch sized and installed according to the hardware manufacturer and the actual gate load.
Finish for the material
Let the lumber condition and coating manufacturer determine preparation, moisture readiness, compatible primer or paint, coat count, and cure time.
Return to the backyard
The finished opening reads from across the yard.
That is the payoff of registering the image before the cut: the negative space still reads as one cat after the pickets are separated, fastened, hung, and painted.
There is no working pattern download or reliable project video attached to this guide. The photographs are the record. Adapt the shape to your measured boards and use the larger backyard guide for the surrounding space.