From Funky Fungus to a Stunning Bar: My DIY Spalted Maple Journey
I knew that I wanted to build a bar in the speakeasy but I wasn't exactly sure of the style. My initial thought was to make a walnut topped bar but then I walked into my local miller's shop and fell in love with the figure of this spalted maple slab. Let's be clear, it did not look this way when I bought it but the figure was there. It had natural curves and wasn't too live edgy. Spalted maple can have some beautiful lines created by fungi - the lines are a result of the nutrient trails of the fungus rotting the wood. The key is to find wood that is rotted enough to look cool but not so much that it causes structural issues.
Materials I Used
Spalted Maple Slab
1.5" thick or greater for the bar top
2x4 Lumber
For the frame construction
1x3 and 1x6 Boards
For façade and decorative elements
Minwax Warm Polyurethane
For finishing and protecting the bar top
Wood Screws
Various sizes for assembly
Wood Glue
For reinforcing joints
The Build: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Choose the Right Slab
Look for kiln-dried spalted maple with interesting figure and minimal moisture content (under 12%). The slab should be planed and relatively flat without major dips or wobbles. Avoid excessively rotted areas that might compromise structural integrity.
Step 2: Sand the Slab
Start with 80-grit sandpaper on an orbital sander to smooth the surface. Use flap sanding wheels to address any small areas of rot. Work up to 120-grit for the final surface. For edges, a belt sander can help shape natural curves, but move quickly to avoid creating uneven areas.
Step 3: Plan and Cut the Bar Layout
Visualize how the slab can be used to create a flowing bar design. For mine, I cut the slab on one side and split that cut in half to create side pieces. Clamp pieces together and sand across seams to create a unified flow, even if grain doesn't precisely match.
Step 4: Build the Frame Base
Create a sturdy 2x4 frame core with dimensions that properly support your bar top. For my bar, I used 49" lengths for the front and back, with 27" cross pieces. Ensure the frame has supports positioned where they'll be hidden by the bar top.
Step 5: Create Decorative Panels
Build three panels (front and sides) using 1x3s and 1x6s in a pattern that matches your aesthetic. I arranged mine vertically with a 1x6 horizontal support. Secure panels to the 2x4 frame, making sure to nail from the interior so no nails show on the exterior.
Step 6: Stain the Base
Sand the entire base with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply wood stain with a rag, wiping off excess immediately. For added character, I dabbed small amounts of contrasting stains on select boards before applying the main stain to create subtle depth.
Step 7: Mount and Shape the Bar Top
Temporarily secure the main slab with screws from underneath, then position side pieces. Sand across all pieces as a unit to create smooth transitions between sections, particularly at the corners which should be rounded for a natural flow.
Step 8: Apply Polyurethane Finish
Clean the slab thoroughly with mineral spirits. Apply 3 thin coats of Minwax Warm Polyurethane using a quality brush. Use the feathering technique (light brush strokes from end to end) to eliminate bubbles and ensure an even coat. Allow proper drying time between coats.
Step 9: Final Assembly
Once the polyurethane has dried sufficiently (allow at least 48 hours after the final coat), apply wood glue to the support frame, align all pieces precisely, and secure with clamps or weights. Drive additional screws through the base into the slab for permanent attachment.
